Kathmandu

I get a cheap room in the centre of town and sleep for hours. The nest  morning ,with  Mr saha's son and nephew  I visit the  two temple in Kathmandu that are most sacred to hindus and buddhists

At Pashupatinath (outside which a sign proclaims' Entrance for the Hindus only ') there is an atmosphere of febrile confusion priest hawkers, devotees, tourist, cows monkeys seasons and dog roam Through the ground. We offer a Few flowers there are so many worshippers that some people trying to get the priest's attention are elbowed a side by others pushing their way to the front a princess way by the main gate a party of saffron -clad westerners struggle for permission to enter the policeman is not convinced that they are the' Hindus only '(Hindus are  allowed to enter the temple ) a fight breaks out between two monkeys one chases The Other who jumps into a shivalinga,then rans screaming round the temples and down to the rivers the holi Bhagwati that flows below.A corpse is begging  cremated on its banks washerwomen are at their work and children bathe from a balcony a basket of flowers and leaves old offerings now wilted, is dropped into the river a small  shrine half protrudes  from the stone platform on the river bank when it emerges fully the Goddess inside will escape and the Evil Period of kaliyug will end on earth.

 At the budhnath stupa the Buddhist shrine of Kathmandu there is in contrast, a sense of stillness, its immense white dome is ringed buy a road small shops, stand on its outer edge many of these are owned by tibetan immigrants, felt bags Tibetan Prince and silver jewellery can bought here. There are no crowds this is a heaven of quietness in the busy streets around.